Liv’s goofy footed

We left the Himalayas behind us, in search of sun and surf. Sri Lanka was our destination, a short 4-hour flight from Kathmandu. We flew in to Colombo and immediately transited to the the southern coast of Sri Lanka. Know for it’s beautiful beaches and beginner surf breaks

Our first morning in Hiriketiya Beach I immediately saw what felt like 50 people in the water trying to catch a wave. We saw many people also on boards on the beach practicing paddling. We didn’t think we’d do a lesson that first day, thought we’d ease into things, but ended up walking the beach and met a guy named Lucky and his brother and decided to get started that afternoon.

There were so many people on the beach I thought we’d be squished doing a lesson, but it wasn’t bad at all. We started by warming up, running on the beach, then stretching our necks and our backs. Then adults got blue boards and kids got green boards. While on the beach we then started practicing the steps to get up on the board.

First … as the wave is coming, paddle, paddle, paddle, three strokes before you think you need to start

Next … if you’re on the wave, put your hands need your chest, kind of like the start of the cobra yoga pose

Then … lift your body up into the plank position, and pushing your body up, putting your back foot at a 90 degree angle, perpendicular to the board, and your front foot at a 45 degree angle in front. Here is were I learned I’m more comfortable with my right foot in front and my left foot in back. That means I’m goofy footed. The rest of my family is regular footed.

Now … you’re surfing! Stay low, use your hands to balance.

After practicing that several times we got into the water, paddling out the a shallow part of the bay. Lucky and his brother took turns, positioning us towards the shore. We’d wait for a wave to come, they’s say “start paddling” then they’d push you at the right time to catch the wave, then yell Then they’d yell “1, 2, 3 … get up! get up! get up!” … then they’d whoop in celebration.. as we would ride the wave in.

We did that for over an hour .. at which time we started getting tired, feeling it in our ribs and shoulders. However, we were hooked and this lesson started two weeks worth of surfing at Hiriketiya Beach.

Besides a field trip to Udawalewe for safari, Mirissa for a whale watch, and the occasional day off to apply aloe to our sunburned back of calfs, knees, and thighs and let our bruised ribs recover, we were out in the Hiriketiya surf every day

I find surfing so freeing.

First, you also have a lot of time to think, as you’re waiting for sets to come in.

You’re then watching waves and other surfers turning around looking at waves – for me that is the trigger to start turning around too.

While you might be out there with many other surfers, while your on your board it’s really just you. You get time away from siblings and family members you’ve been with for the last 3.5 months straight. It makes me feel independent.

You also observe a lot. I always found this one guy who would do crazy stuff on his board, like headstands and 360s.

When you do catch a wave, there’s not much like it. It feels like you’re flying. And quoting Grant “it’s not something we can make happen. It’s all nature.” Once you’re on the wave it’s just you and the surf board. You have the power to turn the board anyway you want, and you can ride the wave in so and so shallow that your knees are out of the water.

With this experience our family is now considering how to incorporate surfing into future stops along our year-long journey … and even how to incorporate surfing into life back in Vermont.